Celia Fiennes (1662 - 1741)
Celia was born on 7th June, 1662, at Newton Toney,
Salisbury. Her father, Colonel Nathaniel Fiennes, was the second son of the 8th Baron and first Viscount Saye and Sele, a
staunch Puritan, and one of the first generation leaders of the opposition. Both he and all Celia's uncles had fought against
the King. Celia's strong, Nonconformist heritage may have given her the courage for her travels, but the
motivation, she insisted, was practical: 'My journeys were begun to regain my health by variety and change of aire and exercise,'
she recorded in the preface to her journal. But despite proclamations to the contrary, Celia seemed to be in excellent health.
England was not then a land of neat hedgerows and orderly rivers
with sturdy bridges; it was largely a wilderness. Celia could journey half a day through narrow lanes, sometimes in deep clay,
with no one to direct her way. Not surprisingly, she encountered numerous mishaps. She might easily have drowned on the flooded
causeway of Ely and her 'horse's feet could scarcely stand' as she crossed the Sands of Dee. Twice she was thrown from her
mount when it fell just outside Alresford, but suffered 'noe harm I bless God.' These accidents failed to upset or discourage
her, indicating that her nerves were just as strong as her body.
Her journeys included visits to the numerous 'spaws' of 17th-century
England: Bath, of course, as well as Epsom, Hampstead, Tunbridge, and Dulwich. Celia visited them all, many times, to sample
their waters. Her descriptions of the people gathered there shed a telling light on the rampant hypochondria of the period,
of which the author was most likely a victim. At a time when the national diet consisted primarily of various meats and grains,
there may, however, have been real value in the spas' therapeutic waters.
In addition to her description of the state of the country's
health, Celia Fiennes provides invaluable insight into the social and domestic attitudes of 17th-century England. Her interests
lay in rich men's houses and in the towns where 'big money' could be made. This interest in great houses was natural for one
in her social position and, with a woman's eye, she describes their gardens, ground, and the number and arrangement of the
rooms as well as their pictures and furnishings.
But in addition to these 'feminine' details, Celia took a decidedly
unladylike interest in new manufacturing processes and drainage projects. She devoted her most detailed descriptions to the
mines and quarries she visited. 'Tho' the surface of the earth looks barren,' she wrote while travelling through Derbyshire,
'those hills are impregnated with rich marble, stone, metals, iron and copper.' Her interest in mining was most likely a selfish
one: a valuable piece of land Celia owned in Cheshire contained England's first known deposit of rock salt.
Most of all, Celia was drawn to the modern innovations of her
age. At Hampton Court she was impressed with the new water closet Queen Mary had installed: 'it is a closet that leads to
a little place with a seate of easement of marble with sluces of water to wash all down.' She spent little time remarking
on the annual feasts or processions as these were 'old customs'; instead, she noted the price of food at market.
The late 17th and early 18th centuries heralded not only industrial
and domestic innovations, but also notable changes in England's social structure. Hers was a new age in which a wealthy businessman
could expect to buy himself into 'good society' despite his lack of noble lineage. Celia, it seems, greatly approved of this
new, more democratic society. Her own sister, in 1684, married Edmund Harrison, a 'Turkey merchant', and at Newbury, she writes,
she 'called on an old acquaintance marryed to a tradesman'.
But Celia also found much to be displeased with, and never failed
to point out society's shortcomings. She had a critical eye for the towns, checking the cleanliness of the streets and their
pitch. Her criticism extended to the people she met along her way, particularly the Scots, whom she encountered on a brief
foray over the border: 'I tooke them for people which were sick, seeing 2 or 3 great wenches as tall and bigg as any woman
sat hovering between their bed and the chimney corner, all idle doing nothing or at least was not settled to any work tho'
it was nine of the clock when I came thither.' Celia, a staunch Puritan, subscribed to the theory that the poverty was a vice
rather than an affliction, and concluded that laziness lay behind Scots' indigent circumstances.
Although Celia's haphazard writing style makes it appear at
first that she wrote as she rode, textual evidence suggests that she most likely composed the journal in 1702, following her
return from her travels. In the foreword to the journal, she explains her recklessness: 'As most I converse with knows both
the freedom and easyness I speak and write as well as my defect in all, so they will not expect exactness or politeness in
this book, tho' such embellishments might have adorned the descriptions and suited the nicer taste.'
Following her travels, and the pleasant task of reflecting upon
them in her journal, in 1738, at the age of 76, Celia Fiennes wrote her will, providing for her austere burial, 'without ostentation
only put into a leaden coffin . . . all to be as privat as can be a hearse and one coach and to go out early in the morning
and go the backside of the Town.' The will was detailed; at the end of a listing of silver Celia Fiennes remained modernist:
'let but the canisters be sold being old.'
Although the will did not mention the diary, her zestful travels
are a bequest to all--a wonderfully comprehensive picture of England at the close of the 17th century.
What Celia Sees
What Celia sees as she rides on the Ridge
Are the good lands and meadows, enclosures and woods;
She looks down from the Linch with pleasure, and then
She captures the scene with the strokes of her pen.
Whar Celia sees as she canters along
Is the castle at Corfe that was lately undone;
The cruel Civil Wars brought the fort to its knees,
The remains of the siege are all that she sees.
What Celia sees with her traveller's eye
She writes in her journal for others to see;
And centuries later she speaks to us still
As we ride to the top of a South Dorset hill.
What Celia sees she will
share with us all.
©Ashley Hutchings/Chris While
Dover in the late
The Fabled City
the entry on her in
Through England on a
Side Saddle in the Time
of William and Mary
"The Isle of Purbeck starts as you leave
Wareham, come over the causeway
of the river Frome, and then
suddenly you hit a completely
different landscape. Theres a
bit of heath land and then
you come into Corfe
and it really has an atmosphere
all of its own, it really
is quite special," says Pam White,
education officer, Corfe Castle.
the original of this page can be found on our Ridgeriders
the song, What Celia Sees can be found on the soundtrack recording
of the television series Ridgeriders which inspired the website, in the first place.